Mixed Bag

Leaving Pai was always going to be difficult. The place really felt like home, away from home, for the few days I was there. Still though, it is good to leave a place while the going is good, so I feel like I got out at the right time.

Following a day long delay in Pai, it was time to make the 7 1/2 hour bus journey to Chiang Khong. Thankfully, the driver wasn't in too much of a hurry, which meant the journey was very comfortable. The only drawback of this journey, was that it was dark for pretty much all of it, so it was difficult to take in the beauty of the Thai countryside. In the grand scheme of life, that is a fairly small problem.

After about 5 hours on the road, I noticed, from the sounds of the tyres on the tarmac, that it had been raining. This was the first drop of rain I had encountered since landing in Bangkok, almost three weeks previously. All of a sudden, we were smack, bang in the middle of this crazy, tropical storm. The rain was heavier than anything I had ever seen, there were branches of trees all over the road, as well as a few fallen trees. I have to hand it to the driver, he really took it in his stride, considering the conditions. You could easily sense the anxiety from everyone else on the minibus. The lightening was a bright white and it lit up the surroundings, very brightly. The silhouette of the trees and mountains was pretty spectacular, as was the sight of thousands of frogs leaping all over the road - probably out of joy, at the presence of water.

After a short sleep in Chiang Khong, it was time to cross the Laos border. As border crossings go, this was pretty stressful. The officials coordinating my crossing were grossly incompetent and were trying everything to make a few quid off everyone in our group. When I eventually got to the border, it was like a cattle mart, trying to organise and pay for the visa. Maybe it was my lack of sleep, maybe it was the feeling of being ripped off, or possibly, a combination of the two, but I had a sour taste in my mouth as my initial impression of Laos. I wasn't alone in having this opinion.

A slow boat down the Mekong River is as good a way as any, for Laos to show itself off as a country. An old, rickety boat was my home for the next 10 hours or so. The Mekong twists and turns for quite a stretch. Each twist and turn reveals an even more authentically, primitive culture than their close neighbour, Thailand. Tribal villages were nestled on the side of hills all along the river. The river was pretty low in water, as it is the dry season. The tribal villages are built at an elevation, maybe 40 or 50 feet above where we were cruising. They are built so high to account for how high the water rises when the rainy season starts. It was staggering to see how high the water marks go, all along the banks of the river. I can only imagine the volume of rain that falls during the wet season. If it was my parents house at home, it would be underwater for part of the year!

I keep having so many wonderful experiences and meeting so many truly amazing people, that I think this trip can't possibly get any better. Surprisingly, it does and here I am again, overwhelmed at the whole thing. I still don't know what to make of Laos though. It is very beautiful, the people, for the most part, are friendly - though nowhere near as friendly as the people in Thailand. For me, there is something missing from this place, but I can't put a finger on it.

Having an early morning coffee in Utopia Bar in Luang Prabang, I realised what it is that makes Laos so different, for me anyway. Utopia Bar is this very beautiful, tranquil bar, with all sorts of plants and flowers growing in it. There is two decks overlooking the Nam Khan river, a tributary of the massive Mekong River. This bar is full of tourists, except a few local staff. As I sat there, sipping my coffee, relaxing and taking in my beautiful surroundings, I could see many local fishermen going about their work, casting nets and bringing them in again. It looked like back breaking work. It struck me then, that those guys below me, in the river, couldn't afford to buy a drink in the bar I was in, if they put all their weeks wages together. The divide between rich and poor is very obvious here, and most people haven't got two pennies to rub together. All they have is the smile on their face. Laos is an extremely poor country. You rarely see old people here and a local that I spoke to, told me it is because a person usually dies when they get sick.

Now I could understand, a bit better, people's desperation to earn money. They see it as their ticket to a better future - maybe not for them, but for a loved one. Family is a very important concept here and having spoken to that local, I now have a much greater appreciation of Laos, and the struggles of its people.

Good times

Following a cycle into the countryside on Thursday, we stopped for 'one' drink in the Buffalo Bar on the way home. This pub is a little gem and as happens occasionally, 'one' drink can turn into quite a few. These random, unplanned parties are usually the ones worth remembering; we definitely got our monies worth on this particular night.

Sitting at a rather large table, there was people coming and going all night. Everyone was welcome and each person was just as much a stranger to each other, as the one previous. There was an open mic on, so some were singing in that and a few people had the chance to play their instruments by playing with the back up band. There is something about live music that really lifts people's energy. At one point in the night, the table was so culturally diverse that there was ten countries represented - not bad for a town that is a fraction of the size of my hometown, Dungarvan!

It is time to go discover fresher pastures. Heading East of Pai, later today (Saturday, 22nd March) we are going towards Chiang Khong, for an overnight stay in the riverside town. We will then cross the Mekong River border, into Laos and the next leg of the adventure will begin. I haven't done a whole lot of research on this country, so getting lost, in the hope of stumbling upon a hidden mecca is the aim of this step of the journey.

As I write, I am swinging on a hammock overlooking the river Pai. We have been delayed by a day, so another night in Pai is on the cards. I for one, am definitely not complaining. There is a few things that I never got around to doing, so maybe it is fate that I'm here for another night. To get to where I am staying tonight, you have to walk across a bridge, made from bamboo. It is actually falling apart, bit by bit.There are boards missing here & there, and it felt like such a novelty to cross it, knowing that in most other countries, a bridge in this condition would be under the scrutiny of the health and safety authorities. Not here; anything goes, as I've said before!

What did I say about fate? Staying in Pai for an extra night, meant I got the opportunity to bump into some people that were on the jungle trek with me, in Chiang Mai. Having many unfinished conversations from before, we got to further cement our friendship by concluding prior conversations and giving ourselves excuses to meet further on in life, so we can end the chats that started tonight. There are numerous ways of being wealthy and I feel like I am a wealthier person, as a result of the friends I have made throughout this journey.

I've never made a secret of the fact that I suffer from depression. It has shaped who I am today. I've no way of explaining why, but one of the things that got me particularly down over the years, was the passage of time. I used to dwell on what time actually is and the fact that we have a finite time here on Earth. A morbid fear of death might be a more accurate description for these feelings. Not knowing when it would all end, for me, was a very prominent fear. It is ironic that this fear actually prevented me from living, as I was so consumed by why time existed, that it actually put many constraints on my ability to function as a person.

Over the last few years, I have come to believe that your time is up when it is supposed to be. This mindset has really freed my mind of the restrictions previously put on it by my depressive state. It is human nature to put such restrictions on ourselves. If we believe we can't do something, then we can't. On the contrary, if we know we can do something, the possibilities are endless.

To put some context on what I've just said in the last couple of paragraphs, renting a scooter, in Pai, was one of the best things I have ever done. Leaving all fears aside, I decided to bite the bullet and just go for it. Driving to various waterfalls and a hot spring were amazing. I could easily see why motorcycle is the preferred method of transport in this part of the World. Driving along, with the breeze in my face, was one of the most exhilarating experiences I have ever had. True freedom and just accepting that, what will be, will be. More of the same please!

Pai in the sky

My time in Chiang Mai has come to an end. I am going to post a rough guide to the city in the next week or two. Next stop on the journey, Pai, a remote town in the mountains of Northern Thailand. It is a three hour journey, that we took by mini bus.

I am counting my blessings that I am in a position to write this post - the driver of our mini bus was an absolute lunatic; he put all his passengers lives at risk for the whole journey. Once we got off the motorway, the roads were winding up and down hills for quite some time. It was bizarre to see wild cattle grazing on the side of the road along the way. As we motored along these winding roads, I would hazard a guess that we spent as much time on the wrong side of the road, as we did on the right side, our driver always trying to make the corners easier to take. To put it politely, my heart was in my mouth for the whole journey

Throughout Thailand, you can really sense how laid back it is. Everyone seems to be doing something, but no one seems to be in a hurry. Pai is no different. Our bus got here at about 9p.m. and the place was really mellow. The night sounds of nature were very noticeable, as I walked around trying to find somewhere to stay. In the darkness of night, I really began to like this place.

Having slept poorly, I got up early on my first morning and decided to look around the town, that had been recommended to me by so many people. Being in the bottom of a valley, the mountains surrounding Pai are like a protective wall, surrounding the town. It is fair to say that I liked Pai from the start. Friendly vibes are extended from everyone, tourist and local alike. There are many free spirited souls in Pai, finding themselves, on their travels. I have met some really amazing people and heard many inspirational stories.

Tattoo shops are thriving in this town, as many people want a piece of art that is symbolic of their journey, be it a spiritual journey or a back packing experience. I guess it is a feeling of freedom to be ones self, as back home in the Western World, there are many things you need to consider before decorating your body with ink or piercings, such as what an employer may think, for example. In my own opinion, I think it is a pity that people are judged based on their taste in hairstyles, body art etc. One should only be judged on the content of their character.

Strangely, there was a power outage in the whole town on my second night. In spite of the lack of light and power, most businesses managed to stay open using candle light. Restaurants were still cooking, using gas. Walking around in the darkness, you would never think we were missing something, that many of us take for granted. People were getting on with life - some were singing in bars, some were playing musical instruments and others were chatting amongst themselves. For the second time on my journey through South East Asia (the first time being out in the jungle), it felt like I was brought back to basics. I am now convinced that this is the main lesson of the trip; as long as you have family, friends, a roof over your head and food to eat, life will be OK.

An early morning yoga class is a great way to start any day. It loosens the muscles and sets the mind up for the day ahead of you. Nestled into the side of a hill, was the bamboo hut that the yoga class took place in. The stretches were made a lot easier, when the view from my perch was one of sheer beauty - mountains, trees and nature; you can't go wrong!

I feel that I should give a mention to the place I'm staying in, for my time in Pai, OOr-U-Pai. As back packing goes, this place is very off the beaten track, even though it is very central to the town of Pai. The owner is extremely friendly and he couldn't be more helpful if he tried. There are bikes available, free of charge, there is always a fresh fruit breakfast and after a few days here, he was asking how much we wanted to pay for the rooms.

Making use of the bikes offered, I cycled around the countryside for a few hours. Ordinarily, I'm not a fan of cycling, but I really enjoyed it here; I think it was the combination of beautiful surroundings and the warm breeze on my face, that made it so pleasant. I could definitely get used to a life in Pai!

Same country, different Worlds (part 2)

Same country, different Worlds, continued...

Following the village visit, we took off trekking towards the jungle, walking through the village's agricultural land, where they grow rice, soy and a variety of other crops. They don't use mechanical equipment and I was imagining, in my own mind, how labour intensive it must be, when it comes to harvesting these crops. Apparently, the whole village helps out. This kind of socialism seems to work very well for these indigenous people. No such thing as greed; just all for one and one for all. It truly was a privilege to get a glimpse into this way of life, and those people touched my heart, more than they could possibly know.

Marching on through the jungle, there was very little our tour guide, Lan, didn't know about the various leaves and fruits that you could eat. Some tasty, others the polar opposite! If you were stuck out there, you'd never go hungry - the variety of edibles seemed to be endless.

Not being used to the heat (never mind long distance walking in it!), some of the group were eager to take a break after a while. Lan encouraged us to walk a little further, promising a very nice surprise a few minutes further up the trek. Reluctantly, we pushed on and the reward was worth the slog, when we came to a natural spring that we all splashed around in for a while. It was beyond refreshing, and I think the group would back me up in saying that all of our faces were sore from smiling, at the whole experience.

When we finally got to our resting place, I felt like I was dreaming. Just below the hut that we would be sleeping in, was a huge waterfall with a pond that we could swim in. You could hear the water crashing off the rocks from where you laid your head, which I found very soothing. There were trees towering 100s of feet above our heads, housing all sorts of tropical birds and butterflies. As clichéd as it may sound, I was at one with nature and I had never felt as chilled out, as I did out there.

The beauty of our surroundings contributed to the groups chemistry and we all got to know each other, talking about everything, and nothing at the same time. My words are only vaguely descriptive, at best. It was just one of those things that you'd need to be there for, to really appreciate how enhancing it was, for everyone  present.

The second day of the trek saw us trek to a Buddhist temple, in the middle of nowhere. In my heart of hearts, I was disappointed to be going to another temple, as I had seen quite a few already, in Chiang Mai. The guide told us, that this temple was like no other. He said no more and I took him at face value. I can assertively say, that this temple was like no other. Stuck, in the heart of the jungle, lays this magnificent temple, with trees and shrubs of every conceivable colour surrounding it. The only way to get to it is by a dirt road through the wilderness of the jungle. The general ambience of the place was one of complete serenity. I don't know how to describe the beauty of this place any better, so it is probably best to leave it at that, as words are failing me - a common occurance of this trip, it would seem!!

Waking up on the third day, I was disappointed to be leaving the jungle. The trekking part was finished with and we were heading back to Chiang Mai, via an elephant centre to go elephant back riding. Long before that, I had decided that I wouldn't take part in this activity. I had read somewhere previously, that the process of taming elephants is called 'the crush'. This literally means that, from birth, the elephant's spirit is completely crushed, until they become submissive to humans. The others on the tour were taking part, so I had to stop by with them. I just waited at a nearby coffee shop. From my seat in the coffee shop, I could clearly see what was happening in the elephant centre below.

When I saw how the elephants were treated, I felt so bad for them; I wanted to do something to help them, but the only thing I could realistically do at that time, was to stay away from them. I became very pensive, and found myself wondering, how their human handlers could live with themselves for treating an animal this way. I'm glad that I stuck to my guns, and didn't go near the elephants that day, as I would carry the guilt forever more. This was an upsetting end to my 3 days in the jungle. On reflection, sadness is one of the only emotions I didn't feel while I was out there, so maybe it was good to get it out of my system before getting back to Chiang Mai.

Same country, different Worlds

After a few days in Bangkok, I was beginning to wonder if I had made a mistake in my choice of destinations. I was feeling a little bit deflated, if the truth be known. My next stop was Chiang Mai, and I decided to get the bus, which was a gruelling 10 hours. My decision to travel by road, as opposed to air, was made based on the fact that I could see some of the countryside as I went. Thailand is a truly beautiful country and the road trip to Chiang Mai really illustrated a different country, than the one portrayed by Bangkok.

Chiang Mai is a really laid back, sleepy city, at the same time as being explosively energetic. You'd have to experience it for yourself, to understand where I am coming from. It is warm and welcoming; my trip really only began once I got here.

Trying the local food and visiting Wat Luang Temple were among the highlights. When you set foot inside the temples, you instantly feel at peace. They are so tranquil and the monks that live in them, keep them in tip-top condition.

I wrote the opening three paragraphs of this post on Saturday, 8th March. It is now Wednesday, 12th March and I have been completely humbled, by three amazing days in the jungle of Northern Thailand. The group that did the trek, was full of great people and we all gelled together very nicely. The first day of the trek was the single best day of my life, to date. Everyone was just being themselves and it was really special. There is a lot to be said for feeling like you can just be yourself around others.

There is something very primitive about rafting down a river valley on a raft made out of 8 bamboo shoots. The sounds of the river and the jungle inhabitants, the animals & insects, going about there day, is very endearing. After an hour on the river, we went to a tribal village that is very off the beaten track.


I've never felt as welcome as I felt in this indigenous village that day. Many of the tribes people were just sitting about, relaxing, having their lunch. It was a really sociable occasion and we were made feel at home, when they offered us some of their cuisine. At first, my cynical side had me thinking that they were after our money, or that there would be a sales pitch somewhere along the way. One should never make assumptions. Lesson learned! We had actually just arrived into the village on the day of a wedding, and the locals just wanted us to help them celebrate.

One thing that really struck me, is how genuinely content these people seemed. They all wore huge smiles and seemed so relaxed. It was obvious to me that they knew what really mattered in life - family, friends, being together. Things like Facebook, Twitter and branded goods meant nothing to them, and they're probably better off for it! The irony of that last sentence, as I sit here writing a blog!!!

This post is getting long now, so I will continue it on another post in the coming days

...to be continued

Bangkok, not really my cup of scald!

My mind has been blown - i'm just throwing that out there as an opening to this post! Anyone I have ever met that has set foot in Bangkok, has always offered the same few words of advice-

"Be prepared for the culture shock"

If i've said the word 'overwhelming' once this week, i've said it 100 times. It is hard to put into words, just how overwhelming the city of Bangkok really is. The number of people, the volume of traffic, the aroma of food, the heat, the noise and the general hustle & bustle of a thriving city, all contribute to the energetic vibe of this metropolis.

Riding along the ancient streets on a Tuk Tuk is a great way to get around. If you can get over the bumpy ride, it is really pleasant driving along, as the breeze really cools you down. The driver was probably bringing us around the World for sport, trying to boost his earnings, but it meant we could take in a lot more than we could on foot. Street after street of dilapidated buildings. We turned a corner then, and the influence of the West was really present. Something didn't seem right, when I saw hundreds of ancient looking, galvanized warehouses, and smack bang in the middle, sits a DHL facility, similar to one you'd see at home. It looked odd, and very out of place.

For me, part of this trip was about getting lost and just going with the situations I found myself in. Walking around some obscure part of Bangkok on Thursday, I stumbled upon a really random little festival. There was stalls left, right and centre, selling everything from whole fish, cooked on skewers to flip flops and other clothes. The funny thing is, that this festival was taking place on the grounds of a Buddhist Temple. Having done a course on Buddhism, my impression was that Buddhists embraced themselves and their spirituality, in the hope of one day, finding enlightenment. This festival, from my perspective, seemed to be the complete opposite of that. This was definitely a capitalist venture from where I was observing, and the Buddhist monks appeared to be the ring leaders. Again, bizarre!!

Speaking of capitalism, John Perkins, best selling author of 'Confessions of an Economic Hitman', explains it as, doing whatever it takes to make money, regardless of the expense to the natural World. He went one step further, to say that many true capitalists would be happy to make money at any expense to other people. My experience of Thailand thus far, would indicate that it is a highly capitalist country, and that John Perkin's description of true capitalists is bang on the money, no pun intended!

I guess it is a matter of opinion, but I would consider myself an open-minded individual. Judging people is not my thing. However, my heart has broken a couple of times here, as I watch Western men, in their droves, exploiting innocent children/teenagers that haven't had a chance to live their own lives yet. It is not right and I find it very difficult to a) bite my tongue when I see vulnerable people being taken advantage of and b) not be judgmental.

There is something very sinister about a society that sits idly by and lets this happen, all in the name of capitalism. My stomach is actually turning as I type this. Is the money, that these Western men spend in the tourism industry, really worth it? Do the local authorities place that much value on these guys money, that they are willing to exploit their very own people? It boggles my mind and I think it is a sad indictment of humanity. For the record, that is not a politically motivated statement; i'm just writing from the heart!

That's it from me, from Bangkok; next stop Chiang Mai :-) 

24 hours in...

Breathtaking is the only adjective I can think of, to describe the sunrise I witnessed, as I was flying into Bangkok. We flew from daylight into darkness, and back to daylight again. It was spectacular. Above an expansive sea of clouds, the sun was giving off this beautiful, orange light; it was a more intense shade than I had ever seen.

Everyone on the flight was getting really edgy, myself included. Hardly surprising after 10 hours in the air. When the time came for us to make our descent and we got the instruction to open the blinds over the windows, the sun rise, in all it's beauty, injected a new lease of life into the exhausted passengers. There was a collective sigh of relief as we knew this long journey was nearing its end.

Thailand, the land of a thousand smiles. My first impression of the people was the complete opposite of that sentiment. Perhaps that was something to do with the unearthly hour that we arrived at, but the people I first encountered were far from smiling.

It was only about 7a.m. and after passing through the visa check point, I made my way to the train so I could get to my hotel. The heat at that hour was already overwhelming, especially as I was wearing a pair of jeans and a hoody. Luckily, the train journey was only 20 minutes and my hotel was another minute walk. However, I didn't get to my hotel for another 20 minutes, as I had to cross the road at the busiest junction I have ever seen. It was absolutely crazy - there was no traffic lights and the traffic was coming from four directions, non stop. It was a traffic free for all, and I was in the middle of it, tired and confused.

It worked out well in the end, glad to report. Watching a few locals, I realised that the drivers are courteous, and if you walk out, they will stop and let you pass. That said, it'd be wise to watch how the natives do it, a few times, before taking your life in your hands in such a way!

The expression "anything goes" took on a whole new meaning for me, as I strolled around Bangkok for the first time. Walking down lane ways wide enough for two people, and next thing you're being beeped at, to get out of the way, so a local can whizz past you on a moped. Some of these mopeds may have 3 or 4 people on them, and believe it or not, they could also have the family pet. They'd be doing well if they had a helmet between the lot of them! Bizarre, to say the least. Being honest, that description is pretty mild compared to some of the other stuff I saw; more sinister things, that I will save for another post.

Behind the main streets, there is a really extensive network of lanes throughout Bangkok, that give a real glimpse into the lives of the city's dwellers. Many of them have stalls, selling food, at the front of their homes and you can see the families going about their home life as you walk idly by. For me, it was along these paths that Thailand redeemed itself as the land of a thousand smiles.The people were very friendly and you could tell from the glint in their eyes, that their smiles were genuine.

In preparation

Finally, the time has come for me to suppress this travel bug, that has been making my feet itch for quite some time. I thought the time would never come, but one resounding lesson from my previous 30 years stands out; everything comes to an end - including waiting.

Preparing for my travels has proven to be a self reflective process, and I have learned a lot about myself during the last few months. One thing I have learnt is that I hate clutter and hoarding belongings. Another thing I have learnt, or more like solidified my feelings on, is my complete lack of desire for material goods. Through growing up in a Western society, it has become custom for people to accumulate all sorts of material goods throughout their lives- Books, CDs, MP3 players, ornaments, gadgets, clothes etc. A direct result of living in a consumer driven society, me thinks!

In preparation for my own journey, I decided to get rid of everything I own, which I felt I wouldn't use again, either on my travels or when I return - golf clubs, clothes, old copy books from school, old bank statements, phone bills to name but a few. Why did I still have a lot of these things? I have no idea, but I feel very liberated, having rid myself of so many things that have been laying idle for God knows how long! It's not like I have, or ever will look back on my bank statements for fond memories of being broke from one end of the month to the next!

Having a very varied wardrobe was never a huge priority for me. Just take a look at any photos of me from over the years and that will become patently obvious. The only way you'd be able to tell if it was a different occasion would be by looking at my hair length. 

I donated most of my clothes to charity shops. Reducing my wardrobe significantly means I will be travelling very light; this is one of my favourite things to do. Perhaps it is a fear of being responsible for too many things, or just a necessity to limit the strain on my, already weak, spine. My rucksack is classified as hand luggage, so I will avoid queues at airports for checking in luggage. When I land, I can just walk straight off the plane without having to wait for my luggage to be loaded onto the carousel. It may not sound like much, but that is a lot of hassle and time saved, in my humble opinion.

Some of my inspiration for this trip has been taken from a couple, Simon and Erin, that are currently travelling the World and making a living while doing so. They literally packed up their whole lives in the UK, for a life of travel and they have been on the road for quite some time. Obviously, they have a lot of tips to share and I have taken many of them on board myself. You'll even notice a similarity between some of the things I have written, as it is direct advice I took from their website. If you're thinking of heading off on your travels, check out their website and you'll surely take something of value from it. Here is a link:

http://www.neverendingvoyage.com/

For the first time in my life, I am going to be leaving the Western World behind me, in the hope of embracing new cultures and experiences. I am feeling all sorts of apprehension, anxiety and excitement about the upcoming few months. Who will I meet, what will I see, where will I go? Stay tuned and I will keep you posted.

Sláinte,

Mick